Le Bon Marche’ Paris. A Stunning Food Hall In A Historic Department Store In A Great Neighborhood.

The area around Metro Sevres Babylone in the 6th arrondissement  does not always come up on the radar of a trip to Paris.  That is a pity.  It is home to good food, a great hotel which has been under renovation for who knows how long (over 2 years actually) and one of the finest if not the finest food hall in Paris located in the historic department store Le Bon Marche.  You can plan a walk, a visit to a wine bar after your walk or lunch at a number of good restaurants. Or just go shopping.

 

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On exiting the metro station you will see a non descript park, more of a square.  From there walk onto to the intersection of Rue de Sevres and  Boulevard Raspail.  Looking across the street, you will see the Hotel Lutetia.  This famous landmark has been under construction since 2014 and should reopen this year. Now looking the other way down Rue de Sevres, you will see a monument to the world of shopping, Le Bon Marche. Well you won’t exactly see all of it because it too is being renovated.

 

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Le Bon Marche is the world’s first modern department store. It was founded over 100 years ago in 1857 and it too is being completely remodeled to highlight its beautiful stately architecture.  The interior is simply stunning.

 

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But we weren’t there for the architecture.  As I have often written, eating in Paris is about a lot more than the restaurants.   European produce is exceptional in quality and look.  It is a cornucopia of this part of the world,  French salads and chicories, Spanish asparagus and squash, Belgian endive.  And rather than trying to list them, just all look at their beauty and the way they are presented.  We can all learn.  Lighting please American grocery stores?

 

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This food hall has everything you might need to cook a very very good meal including a full service butcher and fish monger.  Or do what we did.  We stayed at the Yellow Flat and enjoyed a simple dinner featuring artisan quality Italian pasta and pesto with shaved parmesan, steamed asparagus with Normandy butter and a salad composed of butter lettuce and chicories.    For Flo a cold Sancerre for me a dry Chinon.  Dessert two pastries from their bakery, a coffee eclair and a strawberry tart.  Why go out?

And all of this from a true temple of food.

If you need a little refreshment or lunch after shopping try these local establishments:

For lunch an old favorite, L’Epi Dupin, Address: 11 Rue Dupin, 75006 Paris, France. Phone:+33 1 42 22 64 56.  Very tourist friendly without sacrificing food quality.

For a glass of wine Le Sauvignon.  You can order light food there as well,  80, Rue des Saints-Pères – 75006.  Just past the Lutetia.  Phone 01.45.48.49.02. An honest simple establishment.

To reach Le Bon Marche from the Yellow Flat take the line 10 direction Gare D’Austerlitz.  Its just 4 stops.

Bon Appetit.

Jules and Flo.

Walking The Marais: Charlie Hebdo Is Not Forgotten.  And You Can Find World’s Best Sandwich Too.

Walking The Marais: Charlie Hebdo Is Not Forgotten. And You Can Find World’s Best Sandwich Too.

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The world was overwhelmed by the events that stunned the City of Paris on January 7, 2015. While events quickly fade into the collectively memory of new tragedies, short news cycles and equally short attention spans, a recent walk around the Marais showed that the spirit of those cut down that day lives on in graffiti and street art throughout the area. This brings a new dimension of interest to an already authentic and historic part of the city, perfect for a mid day walk featuring a self-described ‘worlds greatest sandwich’ and a visit to an up and coming new bakery for dessert.

Start this walk at the metro station Republique. Take a moment to enjoy this bustling square in the heart of the theatre district and be careful as you exit, it is easy to lose direction and get confused.  Once you find Rue Beranger head away front the square, turn right on Rue De Picardie and continue to Rue De Bretagne.  Once there and if your walk is early stop for breakfast at the very neighborhoody Cafe Charlot where you can enjoy poached organic eggs and a good cup of coffee.

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Lunch is a toss-up, you can have it there the cafe or continue on to the Marche Des Enfant Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris dating to the XVI century.  The Marche is just across the Rue De Bretagne, you can’t miss the entry sign. It is a beautiful covered market full of fruits, vegetables and flowers.

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And this massive block of cheese.  Think about it.

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This man has a food stall in the middle of the market with the longest line.

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He said that he makes the world’s greatest sandwich.  We had already eaten lunch but I would love to hear from a reader who has tried one to see if this true.  It looked amazing and he may be right.

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As you continue to walk you will see posters and graffiti reflecting the Charlie Hebdo tragedy. They are everywhere.

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This one really got me, it translates to maybe it is time to start to get back to playing with paving stones again, a shout out to the 68 demonstrations.

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Continuing on Rue De Bretagne you will reach the Bontemps Patisserie with their amazing ‘sable’ cookies that I mentioned previously on my post on Parisian bakeries.  Worth the stop.

Patisserie with amazing cookies in the Marais

Patisserie with amazing cookies in the Marais

From here you have a wide choice of designations.  You can turn right and head up Rue De Temple and back to Republique or go straight on Rue Reamur to the metro at Arts Et Metiers.  For a longer outing the Musee de Picasso, newly reopened, is only 10 minutes to the south towards the Seine.  Another alternative is to see if there is an event at the refurbished event center, Le Carreau Du Temple.  It’s worth it for the architecture along and features everything from jazz to food trucks.

Cafe Charlot, 38 Rue de Bretagne, 75003.  01 44 54 03 30

Marche Des Enfants Rouge, 39 Rue De Bretagne, 75003

Bontemps Partisserie 57 Rue De Bretagne 75003 01 42 74 10 68

Le Carreau Du Temple,  4 Rue Eugène Spuller, 75003 01 83 81 93 30

Pots, pans and pigs. A walk around Les Halles to enjoy the remnants of this ever changing neighborhood.

Pots, pans and pigs. A walk around Les Halles to enjoy the remnants of this ever changing neighborhood.


DSC_0792Les Halles was once the great produce market of Paris, a thriving early morning cacophony of noises, smells and sights that supplied this grand city with vegetables, meats and fruit.  As well documented in print and in the photography found in the great Robert Doisneau’s book on the same subject, the stalls and life that surrounded it were redeveloped into a soulless mall in the 1960’s.  Over the past few years the City has tried it’s best to correct these mistakes with yet another redevelopment of the mall and the jury is still out on the last efforts.  So instead of mourning the past, this short walk focuses on elements of the old neighborhood that remain.

The walk starts at metro Etienne Marcel. On exiting head towards Les Halles down Rue Turbigo.  In two blocks you will reach the entry of one of the largest gothic churches in Paris, Saint Eustache.  Take time to walk through the church to view its imposing structure, massive organ, stained glass and the sculptures that honor the prior habitants of the area pictured above.

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On exiting the church turn left unto Rue Montmartre, the right onto Rue Du Jour and then left onto rue Coquilliere.

DSC_0759At 18-20 you will find E. Dehlerrin, one of the most eclectic, well-stocked cooking and restaurant supply stores in the world, two stores of toys for chefs and the rest of us.

Need a soup pot to boil your enemies in?  I think this one would fit some of my smaller ones.

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The shop is full of copper goodies and yes, they ship outside of France.

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From gigantic ricers to scales it is all there.

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If you time it right, you it might just be time for lunch or an early dinner.  Here are some options:

Continuing on Rue Coquillere at number 6 you will find one of the most beautiful brasseries in Paris, Au Pied de Cochon.

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Even if you aren’t hungry go in for a drink sit at the bar and enjoy the interior deco driven furnishings.

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And if you do go to eat let me know how the pied du cochon, the pig’s foot, tasted. I didn’t have the stomach for it.  The brasserie is known for being the first place where Julia Child enjoyed sole meunier, and you should stick to the classics.  Have some oysters and wash it down with a cold glass of dry Muscadet as you watch workers at the French Stock exchange, the bourse, which is located just blocks away enjoy theirs.

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You can finish your walk on one of my favorite streets in Paris, Rue Montorgueil or head towards the Seine via Rue Du Louvre.

And if you are really lucky, you are finishing the afternoon with a drink at Frenchie Wine Bar on Rue Du Nil.  It’s a hassle to get in but awfully good.  Reservations are hard to find so go at off hours.

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Enjoy this vision of the past (well except for Frenchie at least) tucked in the modern changing city that is Paris.

jules

Eglise Paroise Saint Eustache

2 Impasse Saint-Eustache, 75001 Paris, France
+33 1 42 36 31 05

E. Dehlerrin

 18-20 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris, France
6 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Paris, France

RESTAURANT FRENCHIE


5-6, RUE DU NIL 75002 PARIS
+33 (0)1.40.39.96.19

 

How To Enjoy Your Vacation In Paris.

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-This traveler’s opinion on how to enjoy your vacation Paris.

I started into the business of renting apartments for vacation because I enjoyed the experience of staying in them while I was on vacation.  It gave me a sense of adventure and reality that I never found in hotels.

Yet where you stay is only part, albeit a critical one, of what a vacation means.  Vacation is personal time, something we often lack in our daily lives.  It’s freedom, away from the boundaries of home. What you do on vacation, and in all cases what you don’t do, is what defines this precious time.  It will make all of the difference in your trip.

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So here is what I learned over these years of being an American tourist in the city of Light and what I want to share with you:

I want you to travel with purpose.    Now, just what does that mean?

Let’s start with what you do.  As you plan your trip and well before you leave ask yourself this question:  Why am I going to Paris?  And once you answer it (and if you can’t then skip to the second part of this article) prioritize those reasons.  It is not hard to find the experiences you are looking for There is an overload of information on the web, you will find what you need quickly and easily and there are plenty of resources to turn to.

There is another key lesson about what you do in this great city:  Don’t try to do it all.  Paris is a big city and that means travel times, traffic and all of the things that can go wrong.  Prioritize and then localize.  That means planning.   You need to shape your trip around your priorities.

Here is an example, if you are going to eat, then search for Paris food blogs and go from there.  Start with parisbymouth.com.  It is always current, deep and unbiased.  When you have found a number of restaurants you like then base other activities in the same district to maximize your time.

Be open to new foods and tastes.  Ask your server what they would eat or what the chef recommends.  It won’t always work but when it does the magic that is vacation starts to seep into your experience.

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That is the easy part. Now here is the hard one, how to work on what you don’t do.  That is right, you have to work on it. I know that this sounds counterintuitive, but you need to set aside time not to do things.  Vacation is about leisure and discovery and it doesn’t hurt to prime the pump.

Let me give you some suggestions:

If you are following my suggestions you are looking to localize your day.  That is critical.   The less ground you cover the better you will do it and the more you will enjoy it.

Plan a walk a day.  Walk to one of your destinations and give yourself plenty of time to be surprised by something along with way whether that is a park, a bakery or a view.   Have an apple tart for breakfast.  Treat yourself.

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If you get tired then find transport.  Never exhaust yourself unnecessarily.

Sit.  You may never do this in your day-to-day life so sit.  Sit on a bench. Sit in a café.  Watch life unfold.

Explore life as locals live it.  Pick something you like to do be it sports, yoga, a work out or a bike ride and do it.

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It’s a funny balance, to prioritize yet plan enough so that you hit your must haves and leave enough space for leisure and surprise.  You may not get it right the first time but any effort will yield results.

Finally consider extending your trip.  An extra day in Paris means the difference between being rushed and finding the center of what a vacation is all about.

My last blog was on the top 25 things to do in Paris.  Next, I will write about 25 steps you can take to help you do less on your vacation and places where less is more.

I hope to see you there one day, looking out at the Seine smiling and watching the river go by.  Take an extra moment and let it all seep in.  Remember, you are on vacation and it takes a little work to make great things happen.  Or not.

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How To Visit West Africa Without Leaving Paris.

Paris will never cease to amaze me in its scope and diversity.

I was leaving the hills around Montmartre and not paying too much attention to my route, figuring I would find Rue Lepic or Pigalle or some other landmark and then a metro station.  But I didn’t.  As I descended I discovered another side of Paris I did not know.  And once again Paris surprised me on that cold November morning when I was just looking for the metro to take back to the Yellow Flat.

Directly to the north of the Gare Du Nord train station is the neighborhood surrounding the Chateau Rouge metro stop in the 18th District.  On most days an open marketplace can be found there starting at Rue Poulet.   But this is no open air market like you will see throughout the rest of the city.

This particular market has a lot more to do with West Africa then with Europe.   Brightly colored silks dominate the windows.  Loud music plays. Hallal butchers are everywhere.    It is packed with shoppers and vendors.  It feels like you are on the streets of Dakar.

The market is full of shops that sell a wide variety of foods, from fish to vegetables with a distinct tropical accent.  You see a lot of cassava, plantains and eggplants.

If you look closely you can see remnants of the French culture that used to exist here.

The wonderful smelling but simple bread that is sold in the window tells a much different story, not an artisan baguette to be found.

There is another class of vendors at the market.  They line up in the middle of the street or on the sidewalk, temporary, transient.  They set up their meager wares on a cardboard box or sell out of a suitcase.  Many sell clothes.

Others sell some sort of dried fish or dates.  Or something, I really could not tell what this is.  Maybe you can.

These temporary vendors live in constant apprehension because they do not have a license.  They never know when the police will come and no doubt they pay something to whoever controls this place and makes sure the lookouts are posted.

Without a spoken word there is a shift in the market.  Something is happening, the vendors look at each other and then as a group without a word and as one they pick up their wares and begin to flee the market spilling out onto the side streets and leaving no trace that they were there just a moment before.

No more than 10 minutes later they have all returned and taken up their spaces in the streets and on the sidewalks as if nothing happened.  All returns to normal.  A child sees something she wants and asks her father for it.

The vendors start to sell corn again.

Then someone yells. An accusation is made and yelling begins.  Fingers point.  A fight almost breaks out.

Just as quickly it ends.  The market returns to normal.  The cops are gone.  Life goes on in the slice of Paris that tourists rarely venture into, missing a rich vibrant and one of a kind visit no other city offers in quite the same way.

To reach the Chateau Rouge metro station in the 18th from the Yellow Flat take the 8 line direction Creteil and transfer at Strasbourg St Denis.  Then take the 4 direction Porte De Clingancourt and exit at Chateau Rouge.  We didn’t feel threatened once but pay attention to your belongings as you always do.

Get off of the beaten path. Enjoy a slice of Paris that isn’t in the guide books and Rick Steves will never walk (no offense Rick!).  Happy walking.

Walking Paris. The Rue St. Dominique 7eme. Urban. Sophisticated. Yummy.

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Editors note:  You are viewing the original version of this post.  I recently updated it and you should read them together for the latest additions to this walk.  Here is a link to the update: https://yellowflat.wordpress.com/2017/02/14/walking-rue-saint-dominque-again/

Walking Paris remains the best way to see it. At least in bite size pieces This walk focuses on one of coolest streets in Paris, the Rue St. Dominique. The walk will take about 45 minutes not counting stops for food, coffee or beer.  It will be tough not to so leave extra time.  You can combine it with a visit to the pedestrian friendly shopping street Rue Cler for a wonderful afternoon in the 7th.

The 7th district has some of the most expensive real estate in Paris and when you do this walk you will understand why.  Home to so many upscale restaurants, beautiful residential buildings, museums and parks, it is one of the most desirable neighborhoods in Paris to live in and to walk in.The walk starts from the Eiffel Tower.  Facing toward Ecole Militaire looking out at the Champ De Mars park start walking away from the Seine river.  Make your second left turn and head out from the park.  You are walking on Avenue Joseph Bouvard.  You will take to Avenue de la Bourdonnais and cross it to the start of Rue De Dominique.

You will see a beautiful corner cafe called Le Dome directly in front of you.  It calls you like a siren to sit and have a coffee and maybe an early snack.  Resist the urge. It is a tourist trap.

As you begin the walk you will notice something immediately, the street is full of food.  Bakeries, coffee shops, wine stores, all laid out beautifully in polished storefronts.  It is a feast for the eyes.

Starting out on your right is the empire of the well-known chef Christian Constant.   He has three restaurants on one block on the right side of the street, ranging from informal (Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes) to the more formal Les Violin.  All get very good reviews and Les Cocottes is loads of fun, an informal hip dining room focused on dishes served in small cast iron pots called Cocottes.  As I have reviewed most of the restaurants in the 7th (click here for the reviews) I won’t go into too much detail about them.

Next up is the very traditional Les Fontaine De Mars and the fountain itself which it is named for.  While Michelle Obama may have eaten there the food is not what it was.  It still looks great.

Take a moment and explore the side street at Rue De L’exposition where the exceptional bistro La Billebaude is found.  And this is a note to carry on, don’t hesitate to branch off for a block towards Rue De L’Universite or Rue De Grenelle and then return.  The side streets that radiate from RSD are just as interesting.

Feeling hungry?  Fantastic bakeries await you, Le Moulin De La Vierge at 64 (you will want to look at the stunning woodwork but remember this is a bakery and they are Parisians moving product)

And Patisserie Jean Maillot at 103.

What a pain au chocolat.

If that isn’t enough dough there is La Boulagerie at 85.

After this burst of activity continue on past Avenue Bosquet.  At the corner on your left is the American University of Paris.  Net up on your right is the aforementioned Rue Cler.  Worth a visit if you have time, just turn right.  If you are feeling thirsty then be sure to stop at Le Rouissilon on the corner of Rue De Grenelle for a local feel.

Return to RSD and continue on, stop and visit the Church of Saint Pierre De Gros Cailou.

I haven’t written enough about the stores believe me there are plenty.  From shoes, to designer clothes to pharmacies. Always more pharmacies in France.  And some of them sell unusual things like mirrors.

Soon you will reach Rue Malar with the so classic Cafe Malar on the corner and just up the block the infamous basque restaurant L’Ami Jean.

Here the side streets are elegant, full of small stores and unusual shops, take the time to walk up to Rue De L’Universitie and then back down to RSD.  This is a shoe repair store and like many in Paris they have a style that exists nowhere else.

If you look carefully there is a small passage running from Rue L’Universite to RSD called Passage Commun.  It has a working wood mill and a feeling of how this neighborhood was a long time ago.

And if you are in need of caffeine, there is the new Le Seven’s coffee at 58.  Next up is the Rue Sucrouf with, yes, another great group of places to eat.  It is overwhelming here, choose from La Poule Au Pot at the corner of Rue De L’Universite or two other quality bistros, La Petite Bordelaise and Au Petit Tonneau in the middle of the block.

All good things do end and you are heading to the end of your walk at Boulevard De La Tour Maubourg.  At 18 (on the corner of Rue L’Universite) you will find a branch of the famous caviar house Petrossian should you be feeling the need for luxury.

Look back up the block.  You should see the Eiffel Tower in the distance.  In this neighborhood it is always there.

What to do now? You can continue on straight to Les Invalides or a visit to the Musee D’Orsay.  Or turn around and reverse your trip.  You can head back down Rue De L’Universite or Blvd. Grenelle towards Rue Cler. Any way you choose, this is a great neighborhood walk in this great city. And if you aren’t hungry by now….

Should you want to finish this excursion by metro,  continue to Les Invalides, turn left and you will find the metro station Invalides at the bank of the Seine at the Quai D’Orsay.

Here is a link to map

And here is a list of the stores and restaurants reviewed, all located on RSD unless otherwise mentioned.

Bakeries

Moulin de la Vierge 64

Jean Millet 103

Restuarants

Le Cocottes Christian Constant  135

Cafe Christian Constant  139

Les Violin D’Ingres  135

Le Fointaine De Mars  129

La Billebaud 29 Rue Exposition

L’Ami Jean 27 Rue Malar

Le Poule Au Pot 121 Rue Universite

Le Petit Bordelais  22 Rue Surcouf

Au Petit Tonneau 20 Rue Surcouf

Petrossian.  18 Blvd. de la Tour Maubourg

Bars

Le Rousillion 186 Rue Grenelle

Good Crepe. Bad Crepe. Paris Crepes.

This is a story of 4 Parisian crepes.

One devoured drunk, hungry and about to get even more drunk late night near metro Odeon.  A super chic crepe for lunch in the 7th.  A cute creperie in the neighborhood that wasn’t very good. And finally the real deal down home you could have been in Brittany crepe.

Some general observations first.  Crepes in Paris fall in to several categories.  The first one we think of is dessert, whether enjoyed on the street or in a restaurant. My kids adored these growing up. Favorite toppings always included Nutella, whipped cream, bananas and chocolate syrup.  Now if you are traveling with your kids this is one of the great treats of Paris and a moment that they will remember.  So give it to them. They are putting up with going to museums and a lot of things that they don’t understand.  They deserve it.

There is much more to explore in this world.  Crepes are a reliable lunch for many French workers, typically eaten with ham (jambon), gruyere and fried egg, sunny side served with a plain green salad of butter lettuce.  With a cost of around 8 euro and covered by the lunch plans provided by employers (oh those socialists), they are common on many menus. Variants include mushrooms, a host different cheeses and hams. Sometimes the salad is in the crepe itself.

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You can also order a savory crepe made with buckwheat (sarassin) flour called a gallette.  The strong herbal flavor of the buckwheat creates great contrast to the filings and seems to cook differently.

One other note, crepes are often accompanied by apple cider owing to their Breton heritage.  French ciders range from mildly alcoholic (doux 3%) to full-bodied brut which checks in closer to 5%.  Served in bowls, they are dry, crisp and addicting.

On to the crepes we enjoyed.

We had been drinking and were planning to drink some more that evening when we realized that we had better eat something.  It was a moment between televised US football games at the Moose and we were steering clear of their infamous poutine. We left the bar hoping against hope to maintain our seats on return and started to wander the streets near the Odeon metro. We were quickly reminded of how few restaurants were open late in Paris, a point I am painfully familiar with (see the earlier post on this sad state of affairs).  Between already closed doors, turned out lights, questioning looks and shrugged shoulders our food options were running out in a hurry.  We walked by a number of questionable fast food joints.  Some soggy pizzas.  Pale anemic sandwiches under infra-red lights.  Even the Shwarma looked old.  Finally, on our third pass we decided that a small sandwich shop/creperie was the best bet, especially with my traveling companion being a vegetarian.  I think it was on Rue Mazarine just up from Blvd. Saint Germian.

What to eat?

We both ordered crepes, very curious as to what would transpire. Our chef put together a crepe that would rival a Northern California burrito in size and scope. Tuna.  Mushrooms.  Gruyerre.  All stuffed into an enormous crepe which he slowly reheated on the griddle while adding ingredients carefully layer by layer.  The result was filling and restorative.  A much better result then my beloved 49’ers would suffer later that evening.

That is big.

That streetwise crepe showed us that they had much more to offer than just sweets.  Total cost?  4.50 euro.  I would do it again in the same circumstance without hesitation.

Crepe number 2. The sophisticated lunch crepe in the 7th.  How cute does this place look?  Very cute.

Cider cups. Not coffee cups.

Tucked into a side street off of Rue St. Dominque in the 7th, Crepuscule is a lunch time favorite for office workers in this neighborhood.  And by the way, I tried to find it again on Google Maps without success. So if anyone knows it’s address, please comment so I can amend the blog.  While it was empty when we got there by 12:15 is was completely full.

Crepuscule Creperie Paris

The lunch was solid.

Crepe and Sunny Side Egg.

Crepes the traditional way with salad, Gruyère and egg.  2 cups of dry cider and two Illy cappucinos that were really well made.  Total cost 24 euro.  Very good.

Crepe Number 3. The lousy neighborhood crepe.

This place had everything going for it.  Bright blue marine colored entry with nautical decor.  Two darling women running it and kids running around.  Creperie Artisinale Bretonne on the door.  This should have been a great lunch but it wasn’t.  We had been meaning to check out La Blanche Hermine, around the corner from the Yellow Flat for years and it always seemed to be closed.  On that Thursday afternoon it wasn’t, so we stopped by on the way to go to shopping.  It was classic Breton in style and seemed so authentic.  I ordered a standard, tuna and mushrooms with Gruyère while Florence stayed true to Jambon/fromage (cheese).  Then I saw it.  There just behind the counter was the culprit.  A microwave.  While La Blanche Hermine may prepare its crepes in an artisan manner, microwaving them is just a sin.  It’s not they were bad.  They just weren’t very good after being re-heated in the worst possible manner.  Cost for lunch 2 crepes, 2 ciders, 16 euro.  Worth it?  I’d rather spend more for better.

Number 4. A truly authentic crepe.

The Real Deal

Ty Breiz is located across the street from the Montparnasse train station on busy Rue Vaugirard.  It had taken on mythic status with us due to my numerous failed attempts to eat there in the past.  Somehow I always showed up when it was too late or on days when it was closed.  Finally this time it was open and they had a table.  The place was hopping, a good mix of locals and tourists and we took our seats in a small room between the main dining area and the kitchen.

I enjoyed a buckwheat gallette made with raclette cheese and ham which was delicious.  The gallette was crispy but not dry, the very rich raclette cheese and ham melted in and covered as you can see with chopped chives.  A simple butter lettuce salad accompanied and once again I forgot to ask them to go easy on the dressing.  Then son, daughter and boyfriend suggested we have a dessert crepe.  We got the works, made with Berthillon ice cream, whipped cream, nuts. Sort of banana split meets the crepe.  The photo says more than I can.

All This In A Crepe.

Cost?  With two bottles of brut cider 90 euros for 4.  How can you do better?  We stumbled out and gratefully walked home.

To reach Ty Breiz from the Yellow Flat take the from Metro La Motte Piquet about 4 stops to Gare Montparnasse.  When you exit the metro look for a map and find Rue Vaugirard.  It runs on the south side of the station.  Ty Breiz is located across the street from the station near the corner of Blvd. Pasteur.  Or you can walk 20 minutes from Metro La Motte Piquet Grenelle.  Head north up Blvd. Grenelle, it turns in Blvd. Garibaldi at Metro Cambronne.  Stay in the same direction.  When you cross Rue De Sevres vere slightly to right on what is now Blvd.  Pasteur.  When you reach the train station turn right at Blvd Vaugirard and turn left to Number 52.  You are there.

Crepuscule.  Somehwere in the 7th near Rue St Dominique and Rue Malar.

La Blanche Hermine.  5 Rue De Poindicherey, 75015  0147343731

Ty Briez 52 Boulevard De Vaugirard 75015 0143208372   www.tybreizcreperieparis.fr