You Have Questions. We Have Answers. FAQ’s About The Yellow Flat.

Everyone has questions about Paris, whether you are visiting it for the first time or the fiftieth. This blog will look at some of the practical aspects of traveling to France, money, credit cards and phones.

What about money? Should I bring Euros with me?

You should bring enough money for your first day of travel and transportation from the airport (see the discussion above).  After that use the ATM machines that are everywhere in Paris.  Your US debit card will work there (but you may wish to let your bank know before you go).  While you will be charged a transaction fee but it still works out better than changing dollars to Euros in the US or at the airport.  And since it is a fee per transaction, you can save a little by withdrawing money less frequently in large amounts.  As with any big city pay attention when withdrawing money and don’t let the Parisian’s crowd you when you are using an ATM.  They often will.

Can I use my credit card when in Paris?

Mostly yes and a little but important no.  First find out whether your credit card has a chip on the front (most don’t and ask your bank if in doubt).  Then find out whether your bank charges you a foreign transaction fee (this again is per transaction and can add up fast).  At writing Capital One does not charge this fee on several of their cards, the key is to find out in advance.  Let your bank know you are traveling in Europe; they are likely to freeze your card if you don’t.

Back to your card.  If you have a chip you can use the credit card anywhere.  If you don’t, it will in most places (and you will get some pushback but it will) except automatic machines.  This is important because you often need a credit card to by metro or RER tickets.  So if you are planning a train ride have chip card or cash

What about phones?

Unless you are moving on a short-term trip contact your carrier and get an international plan.  For example, ATT has both voice and data plans.  It is not cheap but in the end run you have your phone, your phone number and it works.  If you are in France for more than a month then you should look into getting a phone through a local carrier or getting a replacement SIM card.  Either way, using your phone is expensive in Europe.  If you need to get data, use the free WIFI at the Yellow Flat.

Do I tip?

It depends.  In taxis tips are not expected but if service is good then round it up.

What about restaurants? In France your tip (a service charge) is included in your bill, good service or not.  If service is good then round-up your bill by a few euros.  That will be fine.

Do you have other questions?  Either email them to me at: jkragen@prodigy.net or give me a call at 510.524.4446.

Safe journeys always.

Avant Le Comptoir. So Much Good Fun In Such A Small Place.

Has a restaurant ever haunted you? Well Avant Le Comptoir has haunted me for a couple of years over several trips to Paris.

Much is written about chef Yves Camdeborde. His bistro Le Comptoir de Relais is in all of the hip guides to Paris. He even made it onto that famous not so renegade anymore Bourdaine’s TV show for his Paris visit.  But I don’t have the patience to line up for an hour to wait to get in.  Instead, I have had my eye on his little wine shop/cafe located next door, Avant Le Comptoir  at 9 Carrefour De L’Odeon.

But my eye was all that had made it in despite numerous tries. There was always a crowd. A wait. Or it was closed. Yet I couldn’t get it out of my mind as I exited a wonderful black and white photography exhibit near Opera at 2pm on a winter day. I was glad that I had on a warm coat, gloves and a scarf.  I was heading out on a long walk across the Seine and surely at this hour I would be able to get in.

I was right.  No line and half full.  Finally.

Avant Le Comptoir  is a tiny temple of gastronomic delight that serves wonderful small plates of modern French food accompanied by a well put together wine list.  In a work surface the size of a Parisian kitchen they turn out food that is likely the match of the big brother next door without pretension and with great panache.  It has a sort of drunk slightly bourgeois working professionals vibe and once you get in just let the river of baguette, butter and glasses of wine wash over you.  And don’t fight the current.

First look up.  Those aren’t decorative signs, that is the menu.

Now get the bartender’s attention and that is going to be tough because it is loud, there is lots of competition and he is doing most of the cooking too.  Then tuck yourself into a crevice, eat drink and be merry like I did.

I started with a glass of Beaujolais.  Not the nouveau stuff, but a good solid bone dry gamay.  Watching the cook pulling small containers and ingredients from countless containers the show began. I started with a cream of sunchoke soup with toasted slivered almonds, the crunchiness was a great counterpoint.

Next the chicken.  Sort of a japanese approach like a Katsu, a boned thigh breaded and fried deep brown accompanied by a remoulade like dip and way too few frites piled into a mini Stonhenge sculpture.  The chicken was sumptuous.  Another glass of red please, yes the Morgon the bartender suggested was equally good.

Sensing that all was well in this world dessert had to follow.  The riz au lait did not disappoint.  Think of a sweetened risotto in a caramel bath.  All washed down with a sharp espresso.

You can also order sandwiches or crepes to go.  Next time.

The bill?  19 euro, about 25 dollars.

Don’t hesitate to come here at off hours.  And you will be comfortable going there alone, in fact, it is made for that quick hit meal as many many people did during the hour or two I spent there.  I never did open that book I brought along either.

Walking out into the cold afternoon after saying goodbye to the two ad guys who shared plates and conversation throughout the meal (they were still there at 430 now that is life) the cold wasn’t quite so cold.  St Germain looked beautiful.  Life was full and at this moment Paris was doing very very well.

Avant Le Comptoir

9 Carrefour de l’Odeon
75006 Paris
Metro: Odeon

08 26 10 10 87

La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix Paris. Loud, Basque and Rocking The House.

For so many years I have longed for easier happier (and reasonably priced) dining in Paris.  Places where you could unwind while you ate and have, yes, FUN.  I am happy to say that a class of informal eateries is emerging in Paris and I enjoyed several on my recent trip.

The first is La Cantine Du Troquet Dupleix, chef Christian Ethcebest’s latest addition to his changing group of restaurants.  It is a casual room where the idea is to stay loose and eat his hearty basque influenced recipes in an informal atmosphere.  For visitors to the Yellow Flat apartment, this is a great addition to eating in the neighborhood, only 5 minutes walk.

Sizes of the portions vary, we started with an enormous charcuterie platter big enough to feed 4. Yet the cheese plate that I finished with in lieu of dessert was miniscule for 9 euro although the jam along side it was great.

Along with the charcuterie we had a plate of crevettes on the plancha.  My eating mate Ron, a native of New Orleans and serious shrimp aficionado pronounced them brilliant.  They were exceptionally well spiced, reminding us of that famous gulf dish bbq shrimp, but without all of that butter.

Next up were the mains.  I ordered a wonderful Turbot (a european flatfish, part of the flounder family) in a rocking flavor forward spicy fresh tomato sauce with a lot of peppery olive oil that I sopped up after the fish was gone.  Best of they served it piping hot (a pet peeve of mine) skin on and cooked perfectly, the skin flaked off of the white firm meat with ease.

After checking with the waitress Ron ordered the scallops in a potato puree but without sauce.  Vegetarian alert here, always check the sauce in France when ordering fish, they can often use a meat stock.  I think they would have benefited from the sauce but were still good.

Dessert were so tasty my dinner partners would not share them with me while I enjoyed the cheese plate.  The simple homey gateaux basque was as always a favorite.    They served it with a fruit compote that is not pictured.

And the chocolate tart did not make it to my side of the table either.  Thanks Paolo.

I am a habitual sucker for a good deal and this time it did not workout well.   The restaurant serves full liters of red and white for around 20 euro  We had a Brouilly and then a Champingy and neither impressed.  I would go for a bottle next time and spend the money.  The flavors were dull.

While he has other establishments to oversee, the chef was there that night. He was a constant bundle of energy, overseeing the kitchen one moment and wiping down a table the next as only the owner would do.

Service was friendly, efficient and not overbearing.

Get there early, they do not take reservations and you can walk in before 8 and be seated.

By 9 pm the joint was jumping.  The place was loud.  People were having, yes, fun.

Total dinner for 3 with 2 liters of wine and several shots of calvados, 153 euro.  While not cheap certainly reasonable.

 

Le Cantine Du Troquet Dupleix

53 bd De Grenelle Paris 75015.  01 45 75 98 00

To reach the restaurant from the Yellow Flat, turn right on Rue Alassuer.  At the bakery on the corner turn left, you will walk past Park Dupleix and quickly reach Bd. De Grenelle where the metro runs.  Turn right and keep walking until you reach the corner where no. 53 is.  Remember, no reservations.

How To Visit West Africa Without Leaving Paris.

Paris will never cease to amaze me in its scope and diversity.

I was leaving the hills around Montmartre and not paying too much attention to my route, figuring I would find Rue Lepic or Pigalle or some other landmark and then a metro station.  But I didn’t.  As I descended I discovered another side of Paris I did not know.  And once again Paris surprised me on that cold November morning when I was just looking for the metro to take back to the Yellow Flat.

Directly to the north of the Gare Du Nord train station is the neighborhood surrounding the Chateau Rouge metro stop in the 18th District.  On most days an open marketplace can be found there starting at Rue Poulet.   But this is no open air market like you will see throughout the rest of the city.

This particular market has a lot more to do with West Africa then with Europe.   Brightly colored silks dominate the windows.  Loud music plays. Hallal butchers are everywhere.    It is packed with shoppers and vendors.  It feels like you are on the streets of Dakar.

The market is full of shops that sell a wide variety of foods, from fish to vegetables with a distinct tropical accent.  You see a lot of cassava, plantains and eggplants.

If you look closely you can see remnants of the French culture that used to exist here.

The wonderful smelling but simple bread that is sold in the window tells a much different story, not an artisan baguette to be found.

There is another class of vendors at the market.  They line up in the middle of the street or on the sidewalk, temporary, transient.  They set up their meager wares on a cardboard box or sell out of a suitcase.  Many sell clothes.

Others sell some sort of dried fish or dates.  Or something, I really could not tell what this is.  Maybe you can.

These temporary vendors live in constant apprehension because they do not have a license.  They never know when the police will come and no doubt they pay something to whoever controls this place and makes sure the lookouts are posted.

Without a spoken word there is a shift in the market.  Something is happening, the vendors look at each other and then as a group without a word and as one they pick up their wares and begin to flee the market spilling out onto the side streets and leaving no trace that they were there just a moment before.

No more than 10 minutes later they have all returned and taken up their spaces in the streets and on the sidewalks as if nothing happened.  All returns to normal.  A child sees something she wants and asks her father for it.

The vendors start to sell corn again.

Then someone yells. An accusation is made and yelling begins.  Fingers point.  A fight almost breaks out.

Just as quickly it ends.  The market returns to normal.  The cops are gone.  Life goes on in the slice of Paris that tourists rarely venture into, missing a rich vibrant and one of a kind visit no other city offers in quite the same way.

To reach the Chateau Rouge metro station in the 18th from the Yellow Flat take the 8 line direction Creteil and transfer at Strasbourg St Denis.  Then take the 4 direction Porte De Clingancourt and exit at Chateau Rouge.  We didn’t feel threatened once but pay attention to your belongings as you always do.

Get off of the beaten path. Enjoy a slice of Paris that isn’t in the guide books and Rick Steves will never walk (no offense Rick!).  Happy walking.

Walking Paris. The Rue St. Dominique 7eme. Urban. Sophisticated. Yummy.

Walking Paris remains the best way to see it. At least in bite size pieces This walk focuses on one of coolest streets in Paris, the Rue St. Dominique. The walk will take about 45 minutes not counting stops for food, coffee or beer.  It will be tough not to so leave extra time.  You can combine it with a visit to the pedestrian friendly shopping street Rue Cler for a wonderful afternoon in the 7th.

The 7th district has some of the most expensive real estate in Paris and when you do this walk you will understand why.  Home to so many upscale restaurants, beautiful residential buildings, museums and parks, it is one of the most desirable neighborhoods in Paris to live in and to walk in.The walk starts from the Eiffel Tower.  Facing toward Ecole Militaire looking out at the Champ De Mars park start walking away from the Seine river.  Make your second left turn and head out from the park.  You are walking on Avenue Joseph Bouvard.  You will take to Avenue de la Bourdonnais and cross it to the start of Rue De Dominique.

You will see a beautiful corner cafe called Le Dome directly in front of you.  It calls you like a siren to sit and have a coffee and maybe an early snack.  Resist the urge. It is a tourist trap.

As you begin the walk you will notice something immediately, the street is full of food.  Bakeries, coffee shops, wine stores, all laid out beautifully in polished storefronts.  It is a feast for the eyes.

Starting out on your right is the empire of the well-known chef Christian Constant.   He has three restaurants on one block on the right side of the street, ranging from informal (Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes) to the more formal Les Violin.  All get very good reviews and Les Cocottes is loads of fun, an informal hip dining room focused on dishes served in small cast iron pots called Cocottes.  As I have reviewed most of the restaurants in the 7th (click here for the reviews) I won’t go into too much detail about them.

Next up is the very traditional Les Fontaine De Mars and the fountain itself which it is named for.  While Michelle Obama may have eaten there the food is not what it was.  It still looks great.

Take a moment and explore the side street at Rue De L’exposition where the exceptional bistro La Billebaude is found.  And this is a note to carry on, don’t hesitate to branch off for a block towards Rue De L’Universite or Rue De Grenelle and then return.  The side streets that radiate from RSD are just as interesting.

Feeling hungry?  Fantastic bakeries await you, Le Moulin De La Vierge at 64 (you will want to look at the stunning woodwork but remember this is a bakery and they are Parisians moving product)

And Patisserie Jean Maillot at 103.

What a pain au chocolat.

If that isn’t enough dough there is La Boulagerie at 85.

After this burst of activity continue on past Avenue Bosquet.  At the corner on your left is the American University of Paris.  Net up on your right is the aforementioned Rue Cler.  Worth a visit if you have time, just turn right.  If you are feeling thirsty then be sure to stop at Le Rouissilon on the corner of Rue De Grenelle for a local feel.

Return to RSD and continue on, stop and visit the Church of Saint Pierre De Gros Cailou.

I haven’t written enough about the stores believe me there are plenty.  From shoes, to designer clothes to pharmacies. Always more pharmacies in France.  And some of them sell unusual things like mirrors.

Soon you will reach Rue Malar with the so classic Cafe Malar on the corner and just up the block the infamous basque restaurant L’Ami Jean.

Here the side streets are elegant, full of small stores and unusual shops, take the time to walk up to Rue De L’Universitie and then back down to RSD.  This is a shoe repair store and like many in Paris they have a style that exists nowhere else.

If you look carefully there is a small passage running from Rue L’Universite to RSD called Passage Commun.  It has a working wood mill and a feeling of how this neighborhood was a long time ago.

And if you are in need of caffeine, there is the new Le Seven’s coffee at 58.  Next up is the Rue Sucrouf with, yes, another great group of places to eat.  It is overwhelming here, choose from La Poule Au Pot at the corner of Rue De L’Universite or two other quality bistros, La Petite Bordelaise and Au Petit Tonneau in the middle of the block.

All good things do end and you are heading to the end of your walk at Boulevard De La Tour Maubourg.  At 18 (on the corner of Rue L’Universite) you will find a branch of the famous caviar house Petrossian should you be feeling the need for luxury.

Look back up the block.  You should see the Eiffel Tower in the distance.  In this neighborhood it is always there.

What to do now? You can continue on straight to Les Invalides or a visit to the Musee D’Orsay.  Or turn around and reverse your trip.  You can head back down Rue De L’Universite or Blvd. Grenelle towards Rue Cler. Any way you choose, this is a great neighborhood walk in this great city. And if you aren’t hungry by now….

Should you want to finish this excursion by metro,  continue to Les Invalides, turn left and you will find the metro station Invalides at the bank of the Seine at the Quai D’Orsay.

Here is a link to map

And here is a list of the stores and restaurants reviewed, all located on RSD unless otherwise mentioned.

Bakeries

Moulin de la Vierge 64

Jean Millet 103

Restuarants

Le Cocottes Christian Constant  135

Cafe Christian Constant  139

Les Violin D’Ingres  135

Le Fointaine De Mars  129

La Billebaud 29 Rue Exposition

L’Ami Jean 27 Rue Malar

Le Poule Au Pot 121 Rue Universite

Le Petit Bordelais  22 Rue Surcouf

Au Petit Tonneau 20 Rue Surcouf

Petrossian.  18 Blvd. de la Tour Maubourg

Bars

Le Rousillion 186 Rue Grenelle

How To Avoid Having Your Pocket Picked in Paris. I Know Because Mine Was.

Paris is home to many wonderful things and some not so good.  Blessed with incredible art, food and public monuments, it is the number one tourist destination in the world.  But like any urban ecosystem with a substantial food source there will be predators.  In this case that means criminals and in particular pickpockets.

Make no mistake about it, Paris, its streets, tourist destinations and the metro are worked by professional pickpockets on a daily basis. No matter what you do or how you dress as a tourist you have a bulls-eye on your back.  Let me share my story with you and give you a few pointers on how to avoid becoming a victim.  I should know, I broke every rule and paid the price.

Now back to that day. I love taking photos of Paris. When I do I think of the great photographers who came before me. They saw the city in such unique ways and left a spectacular visual legacy. Doisneau, Frank, Kertesz, the list goes on and on.  I have a great time doing this. That is just what I was doing that hot summer day, spending hours roaming the 8th and 1st, enjoying a free afternoon in Paris shooting images of dogs,

people,

signs,

and anything that strikes my eye as interesting.   It was very hot and I was very tired by the end of the day.  That is where my problems began.

The next photo is not particularly well shot or interesting but it has a certain meaning to me.  It is the last shot I took before I was robbed.

I took it while waiting for the number 8 line from the Champ Elysees back to La Motte Piquet Grenelle, our stop for the Yellow Flat apartment.  This is what I did wrong when I got on the train.

1.  I stood in the middle of the car.  It was a crowded train but not that crowded, plenty of room for pickpockets to work. I should have stood against the door where I could watch what was going on.

2.  I did not pay attention to my surroundings. I was tired, it was the end of the day and I stopped looking around at what was going on in the train.

3. I relaxed.  I was completely relaxed it was just another metro ride that week.

4. I wore baggy shorts (my son knew immediately which ones) which left plenty of space in my front pocket where my wallet sat, with cash, credit cards and id, just waiting.  My hands were by my sides or maybe one on my camera strap.

Ok, now the scene is set, so what happened?  Well, I believe this is the most important advice that I can give to you.  

If something odd occurs, out of the ordinary, that distracts you, that doesn’t seem quite right, then your spidey sense needs to start tingling because something bad is going down.

It seemed so innocent.  The man in front of me dropped his keys on the floor.  I looked down and said to him in French, your keys. He picked them up without reply. I never felt his partner’s hand as it reached into my pocket but I did not feel right almost immediately.

Then I heard a voice from my left in French, it was one of the passengers and he said to me “He is over there.  The pickpocket is over there”.  I reached my hand into my pocket and sure enough my wallet was gone.  And I saw him, well dressed in a black sweater and jeans moving down the ailse away from me.  I yelled at him, “My wallet.”

He moved more quickly now towards the door,  I yelled again, Hey, my wallet.  At that point the doors opened and he began to exit the train.  I started after him and as he saw me coming he did something completely unexpected.  In one fluid graceful motion, he reached his hand into my wallet, pulled out the cash (about 70 euro) and flipped it up into the air.  That is right, he threw the wallet back to me.  I watched it turning end over end in the air in what seemed to be slow motion and it landed at my feet.  By the time I retrieved it he and his partner were long gone. The metro doors shut and there I stood.  Only one passenger spoke to me, she asked if I was OK and I told her I was.  The rest never looked up from their books, newspapers and phones.  Just another day in the big city.

I hope this story helps you to remember that when you travel in Paris you are target. You are being watched.  Here are some recommendations:

Keep your guard up all the time, especially when tired.

Watch our for crowds of moving kids in tourist traps and avoid them.  Walk away fast.

Only carry what you need and never ever your passport.

Keep an eye on each other, hands in your pockets on your wallets.

Don’t fall for the distraction, whatever it is.

If you sense something is wrong most likely it is.

If something happens don’t be afraid to yell loud for help. These are petty criminals and will often back off. It may or may not work, but it certainly will make you feel better.

I got lucky. I got my wallet back with all of my credit cards and driver’s license, worth a lot more than the cash and my vacation wasn’t ruined.  I hope that by sharing this with all of you that you can avoid making the same mistakes.

Finding The Best New French Bistros and Restaurants Of Paris. Hint: They Are In The 15th.

The Yellow Flat Paris is located at the border of 7th and 15th districts off of Blvd. Suffren. These two districts are a study in contrasts, with the 15th clearly the poorer working class cousin. And while the 15th has some wonderful streets and parks, as you head further east towards the peripherique and the Porte De Versailles, the buildings become less and less charming and the streets more and more dull.

On the other hand this means that rents go down, and that in turn means that many young chefs turn to the 15th to open their first restaurants after leaving their training grounds behind.  As Brooklyn is to New York and Oakland to the San Francisco Bay Area, this is an area to find up and coming chefs and restaurants.  It is also home to a high concentration of  new wave bistros that serve reasonable well thought out food. Overall, you eat well and reasonably.

Many of these chefs have gone back to their roots creating ingredient forward menus.  And what roots they are!  Food that pays homage to where the regions and dining habits of the chefs, from the hunters of Burgundy  to the pervasive influence of Basque and South-West country cooking.

So here are some of our dining experiences, listed alphabetically.

Au Dernier Metro 70 Blvd. Grenelle 01 45 75 01 23

A rocking bar with a reasonable happy hour open until 2 am with traditional dishes in the style of basque country cooking. Very reasonably priced with a decent magret de canard and more mundane snacks to go with your beer and wine.  Good for an informal meal and just blocks from the flat down Blvd. Grenelle.  Go, find a seat on the terrace and watch Paris go by.  A place to relax and have a good time.  Can be very crowded.

Afaria.  15 Rue Desnouette, Paris. 01 48 42 95 90

Afaria remains one the most trendy of the bistros in the 15e and a reservation has become mandatory.  Can’t miss:  the duck breast served on, yes, a roof tile over grape vines.  Definite Basque influence in the food but modern enough to excite. Visited again in 2012 and it knocked me out with its creativity in presentation. I am going to take the time to review this later, but take a gander at this duck (it did feed 6 of us).  If you want that Boudin Noir (not me) the rendition is over the top.

L’ami Marcelle. 33 Georges Pitard. 01 48 56 62 06.

Located almost at the west extreme of the 15th, walking into this tiny room is like stepping into a time capsule.  Run by a very efficient waiter/host/owner? and his somewhat lost but willing assistant, you step directly back to the 1960’s.  I can’t say the food is gourmet, but is sure is fun. We laughed hard all night.  Not worth the trip.

Le Beurre Noisette.  68 Rue Vasco Gama. 01 48 56 82 49

Daughter  Olivia and I had a wonderful meal there that centered around the largest veal roast I ever enjoyed in a restaurant served in its copper baking dish and an incredible chestnut soup.  A delicate cooking style in a small hushed elegant room.  Very charming and approachable.  Portions are generous.  Worth the long walk.

Cassenoix.  56 Rue de la Federation 01 45 66 09 01.

This bistro was designed to have a road house country feel but the food is complex and satisfying.  We went with a party of 10 so we were a little limited by the menu choices but it didn’t matter.  Lots and lots of food for a 32 euro prix fixe, three courses (soup, appetizer, main) and dessert.   The chef comes from the famous bistro Regelade and brings a flare to his presentation and ingredient choices, this is a meal that feels like it should cost a lot more.  A very neighborhood restaurant where we had a lot of FUN.

Café Commerce.  51 Rue de Commerce. 01 45 75 03 27.

Cafe Commerce is a throwback, a classic brasserie with a very serviceable raw bar.  Some dishes feel a bit old, but the room is exceptional.  Don’t come looking for gourmet and stick to the classics and you won’t be let down too far although on my last visit the restaurant seemed a bit tired even if it was almost August.  Wonderful collection of art deco posters on the wall and an easy walk.  Open past 10 and great for Sunday arrivals as so many restuarants are closed.  Moderate prices.

La Coupole.  102 Blvd. Montparnasse. (OK, it is just over the border in the 14th.).

A famous brasserie well beyond its prime.  I do not know why so many people love it. True, it is a gorgeous room.  But you must deal with a rude host, spacey waiters and very average classic brasserie food.  Service was so bad they brought us free champagne after we complained to the manager.  Don’t bother, you can do better.

Le Cristal De Sel.  13 Rue Mademoiselle.  01 42 50 35 29.

Reviewed here earlier this year.  We had an uneven meal, with lots of brilliance but some very bonehead mistakes and a very weak front of the house that took away from the great efforts of a good chef.

La Gitane.  53 Bis Avenue de la Motte Piquet. 01 47 34 62 92

Reviewed here earlier this year.  A steady performer just a block away from the Yellow Flat.  Although it describes itself as serving ‘cuisine bouregeoise, the chef has the style of a Michelin star.  A traditional comfortable stylish room, a charming couple for your host and some classic french food. Is it cold outside?  Then just go.

Jadis.  208 Rue De La Croix Nivert.  01 45 57 73 20

Had a wonderful lunch here last year.  Of all of the bistros we ate at this one was the one that could be called ‘gastronomique’.  Plates were prepared with style and delicacy (look at deconstructed rollmops above) and I remember my eat with a spoon daube (beef) c0oked in dark beer to this day.  As we finished our meal the chef came out and greeted the room is a red leather motorcycle outfit and then sped away on his scooter.  With all of the press this restaurant has received, reservations are mandatory.

 

Le Pere Claude 51 Ave De La Motte-Piquet.  01 47 34 03 05.

Two blocks from the apartment.  Truly Parisian. Check out the photos on the wall you will see the crème de la crème of Paris politics.  Great open kitchen, prices moderate to expensive.  Service can be indifferent to the point of rudeness.  Very hit and miss and in our view past it’s prime.  If you are there stick to the steak.  Even my roast chicken felt tired.

L’Os A Moelle.  3 Avnue Vasco De Gama.   01 45 57 27 27

There is a reason that this somewhat out-of-the-way room bistro and its cousin wine bar across the street are packed every night. The menu here is 36 euro, the difference here is that the tasting features five courses starting with an amuse; a soup, appetizer, main, cheese course and dessert.  For all of this food and two Sanceres, one the well-known white sauvignon and one red, a very well-balanced pinot noir the bills came to udner 50 euro per person. Be careful on hot nights, there is no AC.

Les Caves A L’os A La Moelle.  181 Rue Lourmel, 01 45 57 28 28.

This very charming wine bar is the informal twin of L’os A La Moelle.  Very informal self-service buffet menu and lots of regional wines by the glass.  A good meal for very little money, you can get out for under 20 euro.  Limited menu, communal eating from large terrines and pots.  Great fun but if the dishes aren’t what you are looking for there are no choices.

La Villa Corse. 164 Boulevard De Grenelle.  01 53 86 70 81

What lies behind the red curtain?  La Villa Corse is located just a block up from the La Mote Piquet metro station and very close to the Yellow Flat La Villa Corse focuses on the cuisine of Corsica. Inside is a packed room of booths, dimmed red lighting and books.  Almost a gentlemen’s parlor of days past.   I expected to see animal head jutting out of the walls. Expect to spend well over 50 euros a person, although if I was on a short vacation this would not be a choice.

With bistros like this you can see why many chefs have abandoned the 3 and 4 star world and gone back to their neighborhoods to enjoy their lives.  And you can walk to most of them from the Yellow Flat.